Introduction
Majority of gaming mouse will likely to suffer from a glitchy left click button due to constant abuse from usage in intensive games (especially those first person shooters). This is due to the microswitch wear and tear, which eventually the internal contact becomes loose, bent and/or have abrasions. In this case, a Razer Imperator 2012 Battlefield 3 Edition mouse suffers from very glitchy left button with false double clicks (click once but system detects double click instead), unable to keep the focus when holding down the button (such as dragging and/or resizing a window) and problems clicking (somtimes require multiple tries before click was successful).
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Dis-assembling the mouse
First, dis-assembly of the mouse is required. Tools required are a "Phillips" screwdriver, a flat-tip screwdriver (to probe and pry open the cover) and a jeweler's screwdriver set (for very tiny screws). Flip the mouse to reveal the bottom/underside area.
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![user posted image]()
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Peel and remove the smooth "mousefeet" at the bottom, which is actually just a plastic sticker. This will reveal a screw that holds down the top cover.
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![user posted image]()
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Use a screwdriver to remove the screw. After that, probe around the cover to figure out how to pry open the top cover. For Razer Imperator mouse, slide the top cover forward (towards the front), and its not easy as the plastic latches can be pretty tight and very tricky. Once the cover is removed, you will be able to see the circuit board attached to the bottom cover. Unplug all connectors/cables from the circuit board board and remove the screws that hold the circuit board down.
Microswitch replacement
This is the circuit board after removal from the mouse bottom cover. That Omron microswitch for the left button needs to be replaced.
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![user posted image]()
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First, remove the old glitchy microswitch from the board. Tools required are a soldering iron, some solder wire, solder flux and de-soldering pump (solder sucker). First remove solder from the microswitch pins on the bottom side of the circuit board, and pull out the old microswitch. Then put in the new replacement microswitch, and solder the replacement in place.
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![user posted image]()
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This is the new replacement microswitch I've used which is much more easier to click and a bit more noisier as well since its switch lever (the red thingy) is raised slightly higher than the original microswitch.
Preliminary testing
Place back the circuit board into the mouse bottom cover including the screws in place, and with the USB interface connector plugged in properly.
[center]
![user posted image]()
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Perform a short test first to make sure the new microswitch works properly by plugging into an USB port on a computer and trying it out on several tasks. This is to make sure the new microswitch is fully working and soldered correctly. You do not want to go through the trouble of dis-assembling the mouse again after finding out the new replacement doesn't work properly possibly due to a faulty new microswitch, and/or due to bad or dry/cold solder joint.
Re-assembling the mouse and we are done!
After the preliminary testing is successful, then can re-assemble back the mouse. Make sure the other connector (for the top two buttons) is plugged back in as well. Note the two horizontal latch holes on the top cover, and match/align it to two protruding fins at the back of the mouse bottom assembly. Push/slide the cover towards the end/back. After successfully putting back the top cover, put the screw back in and then cover the screw hole with the smooth "mousefeet". That's the end of the repair. Now the mouse is back to normal and in good working condition again.
Epilogue
That's it. Hopefully this brief and simple guide will be helpful to users whose mouse warranty has expired and have glitchy button problems. Besides gaming mouse, its applicable to any type of mouse as well.![icon_rolleyes.gif]()
Majority of gaming mouse will likely to suffer from a glitchy left click button due to constant abuse from usage in intensive games (especially those first person shooters). This is due to the microswitch wear and tear, which eventually the internal contact becomes loose, bent and/or have abrasions. In this case, a Razer Imperator 2012 Battlefield 3 Edition mouse suffers from very glitchy left button with false double clicks (click once but system detects double click instead), unable to keep the focus when holding down the button (such as dragging and/or resizing a window) and problems clicking (somtimes require multiple tries before click was successful).
[center]
[/center]
Dis-assembling the mouse
First, dis-assembly of the mouse is required. Tools required are a "Phillips" screwdriver, a flat-tip screwdriver (to probe and pry open the cover) and a jeweler's screwdriver set (for very tiny screws). Flip the mouse to reveal the bottom/underside area.
[center]
[/center]
Peel and remove the smooth "mousefeet" at the bottom, which is actually just a plastic sticker. This will reveal a screw that holds down the top cover.
[center]
[/center]
Use a screwdriver to remove the screw. After that, probe around the cover to figure out how to pry open the top cover. For Razer Imperator mouse, slide the top cover forward (towards the front), and its not easy as the plastic latches can be pretty tight and very tricky. Once the cover is removed, you will be able to see the circuit board attached to the bottom cover. Unplug all connectors/cables from the circuit board board and remove the screws that hold the circuit board down.
Microswitch replacement
This is the circuit board after removal from the mouse bottom cover. That Omron microswitch for the left button needs to be replaced.
[center]
[/center]
First, remove the old glitchy microswitch from the board. Tools required are a soldering iron, some solder wire, solder flux and de-soldering pump (solder sucker). First remove solder from the microswitch pins on the bottom side of the circuit board, and pull out the old microswitch. Then put in the new replacement microswitch, and solder the replacement in place.
[center]
[/center]
This is the new replacement microswitch I've used which is much more easier to click and a bit more noisier as well since its switch lever (the red thingy) is raised slightly higher than the original microswitch.
Preliminary testing
Place back the circuit board into the mouse bottom cover including the screws in place, and with the USB interface connector plugged in properly.
[center]
[/center]
Perform a short test first to make sure the new microswitch works properly by plugging into an USB port on a computer and trying it out on several tasks. This is to make sure the new microswitch is fully working and soldered correctly. You do not want to go through the trouble of dis-assembling the mouse again after finding out the new replacement doesn't work properly possibly due to a faulty new microswitch, and/or due to bad or dry/cold solder joint.
Re-assembling the mouse and we are done!
After the preliminary testing is successful, then can re-assemble back the mouse. Make sure the other connector (for the top two buttons) is plugged back in as well. Note the two horizontal latch holes on the top cover, and match/align it to two protruding fins at the back of the mouse bottom assembly. Push/slide the cover towards the end/back. After successfully putting back the top cover, put the screw back in and then cover the screw hole with the smooth "mousefeet". That's the end of the repair. Now the mouse is back to normal and in good working condition again.
Epilogue
That's it. Hopefully this brief and simple guide will be helpful to users whose mouse warranty has expired and have glitchy button problems. Besides gaming mouse, its applicable to any type of mouse as well.
